Sunday, March 17, 2013

New floor - New flexibility


It's always satisfying when a DIY project starts out with a simple goal in mind but ends up improving your daily quality of life in ways you hadn't anticipated. That's what happened with the floor I recently installed in our "sunroom," the little-used front entrance area of our 1939 home.

The room has always had plenty of charm thanks to its large windows bringing sunny views of the neighborhood to our south, and eventually of our detached garage/studio to the west. But it lacked a clear purpose, despite its proximity to the living room, particularly since we as a family enter via the back (kitchen) door, due to the positioning of the garage, and visitors also mostly use the back entrance after parking in front of the garage.

It has functioned over the years as sort of a playroom (when the kids were little), an occasional place to sit in the wood IKEA patio chairs we brought inside and repainted as beach-house-ish "sunroom chairs," and as a storage place for coats, shoes, backpacks, and umbrellas--despite being inconveniently located on the opposite end of the house from where we actually come and go. When we got a cat, it became a place to put the food, water, and litterbox.

I installed the vinyl floor visible below not long after we moved in in late '99. The previous owners had kept this room, with its then-varnished three-quarter inch tongue-and-groove paneling, pretty rustic, with a strictly decorative old iron cookstove on display (which they fortunately took with them) and brown-painted plywood floor. However, the floor was extremely flat and flex-free--I later found out it was 3/4" plywood over 1/2" plywood resting on stringers over the solid concrete slab of what had likely once been an open porch.

After researching various flooring options at the time (and heeding my wife's insistence that no fake woodgrain be involved, ruling out Pergo laminate), I settled on solid Armstrong vinyl flooring squares, the same kind that have been used in schools and churches and retail stores for 60 or 70 years.

With their precision-cut edges, the vinyl went down quite quickly after I applied--with a grooved trowel--the approved Armstrong adhesive.


The color on these things, with their "flecky" texture, goes all the way through, making them popular for high-wear situations. I knew that Armstrong recommended waxing this vinyl, but the floor looked fine and I didn't really want to mess with it.

I should have. While the floor went down flat and straight, I believe that over time moisture migrated into those unsealed cracks and the tiles began loosening, to the point that the floor sometimes seemed like a giant "slider puzzle."



For the most part, the squares were still in good shape, though dull on the surface. But I knew I'd have to re-stick them to the floor, and I didn't want to mess with wax any more than when I put them in.

Thanks to a tip from Family Handyman magazine, and again keeping in mind the "no fake woodgrain--or any woodgrain" request of my wife, I found and ordered some new flooring that we'll get to in a moment. But first I had to remove the old one.

Fortunately, the adhesive had loosened so much that no chipping or pulling was required. My son and I really just grabbed them by the edge and lifted them up.


These tiles are such workhorses that I knew they could have a second life with someone willing to reinstall and wax them. But with all the other options out there, is there still anyone around willing to trade maintenance chores for superb durability? Instead of just throwing them in the trash, I stacked them under the garage porch, took a few photos, wrote up some ad copy (complete with brand name, color name, and full disclosure about the waxing requirement) and posted it on Craigslist. This was one of the photos.


Within a week, I had a buyer, who--per my instructions on Craigslist--loaded them up while we were away and left the requested $30 under a nearby brick. Gotta love the Midwest.

With my floor cleared for installation, and several days of holiday available to work on it, I gathered my supplies and brought the new flooring up from the basement.


It's "Marmoleum Click," a snap-together surface made by the European flooring giant "Forbo." Though they offer plenty of snap-together floating floors by Pergo and other American makers, the big-box home supply merchants don't sell this particular stuff, and it may be because it has none of the fake wood grain that Americans love. You're going to find Marmo Click at specialty flooring retailers--in my case, Inhabit, a downtown purveyor of unique and eco-friendly building products.

Marmoleum is considered "green" because its wear surface (top) is actually old-fashioned linoleum, one of the earliest modern flooring types whose key ingredients are linseed oil, pine rosin, and sawdust. Remarkably durable and easy to care for, it has fallen out of favor as plastic flooring has grown in popularity. But it is making a small comeback among those who explicitly want flooring made from organic ingredients, or who (like us) just prefer its authentic pattern and texture, which--like vinyl--goes all the way through.

Marmoleum's real genius, however, is the way it's mounted on what appears to be some form of MDF (not sure how green that is) and a cork backing, which adds insulation and softens its step a bit. Equally important, it has a uniquely and precisely milled edge-interlocking system that makes getting a smooth and visually seamless surface drop-dead simple--a far cry from the old days when Linoleum came only in big stiff rolls that required professional installation.

Here's the first two tiles (each about 1' x 3'--actually 30cm x 90cm) in place in the southeast corner of the room.


Since this is a "floating floor" (no adhesive holding it down), you have to leave a quarter-inch or so gap all the way around (to be later covered by shoe molding) to allow for expansion and contraction. That's why I cut little pieces of scrapwood to stick around the edge as temporary spacers until the mass of floor gets big enough to not move on its own during installation.

The way the floor snaps together with a well-engineered clicking action is particularly satisfying. The tongue and groove of adjoining sections pulls the pieces together so tightly that you can't feel the seam with your fingers, and the lighting has to be just right to even see the line.

The first row is especially easy, because you're not tongue-and-grooving two edges, as you have to do on later rows--although even that is not difficult. Jus align the first end . . .


And push it down on the leading end. Then you're ready for the next one.


Here's the first three rows, giving a real flavor of the mottled gray color we chose. It almost looks like some sort of stone. But not woodgrain! That would be terrible.


Note that the leading edge of the installation (the row next to the unfinished floor) is just slightly flared up over by the distant base molding. This is normal, and its due to the slight resistance that helps the engineered tongue-and-groove system make the flooring seams so snug. When the next row of flooring gets attached, this one will lay completely flat from its weight.

I swept and vacuumed the plywood before starting, but stuff happens, so I kept a whisk broom handy as I went along to ensure that everything under each new row stayed clean and--the whole point of that--flat.


Also note (above) the temporary wood block propping up the tile just behind my hands. This is necessary because you're mating two adjoining edges with the same tongue (or groove). 

It goes together brilliantly. First, you connect the short edge and pivot it down. Because the whole row is at a slight angle, you can still slide the long-edge tongue and groove together easily.


Sometimes, a slight tap is necessary to really snug them up, but your Marmoleum dealer will loan you a small, plastic block that fits over the edge just for this purpose, and avoids damaging the connecting edge you'll need on the next row.




Once the row is done, you pull out the "angle-preserver" wood blocks I mentioned above and push the whole row down. My son and I started at opposite ends and just sort of crawled toward each other until the row was flat, or nearly flat. It takes about ten seconds.

This continued on for several hours, and into the next day as we worked our way across the room and prepared for the irregularly shaped cuts on the north side of the room. One problem with buying this flooring is that you have to buy the planks in seven-plank packs, so I measured several times, particularly around the various ins and outs of the north wall, and it looked like it was going to be really close--I didn't know how close. I didn't want to order another package with its minimum of seven planks.

I'm not going to lie to you--It got ugly as I began to cut planks over on the other side of the room. Sawdust covered everything, tools were scattered everywhere, and my legs began to ache as I went up and down a hundred times--cut, fit, cut, fit.


After getting the floor in place, I had to start on shoe molding to cover the gap around the edge. This required primer and two coats of latex matching the existing room's green trim color, a separate operation done in the basement a few days earlier.

Fortunately, I bought a good pneumatic finish nail gun a few years ago, and it quickly locks the trim into place once I finish fitting and miter-saw cutting each piece in the hopeless A-R fashion I am compelled to follow.

However, it was all worth it once the tools were gone and cleaning commenced. I swept the dust into a big pile, vacuumed everything with the shop vac, and gave it a light damp mop (no soaky-mop water cleaning here--it's not designed for bathrooms). With each stage of cleaning, the floor I'd imagined emerged ever clearer, until . . .




Amazingly, this was all the scrap I had left!


Now, there is one more part to this story. In the northeast corner of this room (just to the left of the front-entrance door visible above) is a little four-foot-wide nook, formed by the inverse shape of the "fireplace bulge" from the living room (left side of image, below, behind the temporary work-light cord). From the time we moved in here, we didn't really know what to do with this little shelf area, so Sheri filled it with a variety of vintage-60s toy collectibles that few people ever saw. I should have gotten a picture when those items were on display, but at least I got this one, after the new flooring had almost reached this point and we suddenly decided to decommission it from its former function.


The little built-in cabinet--also made from this beefy solid-wood paneling--was less useful than you'd think. We used it for overflow toy storage when the kids were younger (our entire "Hot Wheels" collection lived here, as well as some Polly Pockets), and then as a place for litterbox collection bags, once we got a cat and had the litterbox in the nook to the left, just below the vent visible above. But it was a dead node, overall, unclaimed space that contributed little to our everyday life.

While working on the floor, and having husband-wife discussions about the purpose of this room, an idea emerged from the fact that I had mentioned putting a small desk in this room for mail sorting and laptop-based web surfing--something I'd been doing for years at the dining room table. Sheri said: Why not turn this shelf/cabinet space into a little desk area? It was a good idea, but one I had never considered since I thought she considered her collectibles too precious to ever remove--but it turns out she was ready to close the museum down. I asked if she minded getting rid of the built-in cabinet (she is an even a greater champion of the Old and Authentic than I am), to allow for leg room. She did not.

So, faced my wrecking bar and hammer, the surprisingly stout cabinet was pried apart and turned into firewood. After doing touch-up painting where it had been, I continued laying flooring all the way under the former cabinet spot, further stretching my just-barely-enough flooring plank stock. But the emerging desk-y possibilities presented by this spot made it all the more appealing, and I pushed forward until this was the result:




During the next few days, I tried it out as a surfing station. Success! It worked great, even with the lousy "balance chair" (half-sit, half-kneel) from the basement office. But this was just the first step.


During January and February, I made a few additional enhancements . . .
  • salvaging a piece of cabinet-grade plywood from the basement, painting it gray, and sealing it with wonderful Polycrylic from Minwax to provide a larger (and non-stick) desk surface on top of the existing narrow ledge.
  • adding a task light. I bought this low-voltage, high-intensity halogen spotlight years ago at IKEA, and it was sitting in the "lamp bank" in the basement awaiting its next purpose.
  • getting a new chair
. . . it was finally taking shape as a comfortable place to surf in the evening, sort the mail, and charge electronics.


In fact, charging electronics--the camera batteries, the phone, the laptops--is one of its most important tasks, greatly reducing the wires and gadgets formerly found on the shelving unit in the dining room.

To help tame a potential cable tangle in this new location, I picked up an odd but useful wood box at the thrift store and cut it in half to make two under-desk cable/charger holders. They're now screwed to the underside of the desk where they hold a power strip (behind the sliding cover on the right) and the charger for my work laptop (on the left), out of sight. An inconspicuous hole in the corner of the desk now routes wires safely to and from the work surface above.


I'd been looking at chairs and knew that the big box and office-supply store ones are made-in-China cruddy. While sofa shopping at Crate & Barrel, I stumbled across this one, whose sharp styling and ergonomic quality immediately grabbed my attention. It's a Steelcase Cobi, a "contract" (office) quality chair that sits great and was worth every penny of its greatly reduced floor-model pricing at C&B. And I could have it in any color I wanted, as long as it was black!


I'm writing this from that chair, in this formerly unused corner of the house, and it's obvious now that reclaiming this space has had ripple effects, including clearing off the dining table for actual eating, making the dining room cabinet less cluttered with electronics, and providing a good spot for mail and magazines to get sorted out without going to my "main" office in the basement.

Oh, and though he was traumatized for several days by the sound of saws and nailguns, Kitty approves of the new space, too. He's adapted to his new fully enclosed litterbox in the basement and has a new and tidy corner of the sunroom to eat and drink in (just to the right of this picture).


One more interesting point about Marmoleum--It's available not only in the 1 x 3-foot planks I used, but in 1 x 1 squares that can be mixed and matched to create original designs like this:

More here.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Doesn't measure up

Dear Wescott Customer Service:

I purchased a metal Wescott ruler, in green, at Target about a year ago. It has been a useful ruler, but the markings on the squared-off end are rubbing off due to normal use. So now I can't measure anything below one inch or above 28 mm (scale on the opposite side). 

Do you consider this an acceptable performance characteristic for this product? I do not, and--as a consequence of someone's cost-cutting idea of using printing that wears off--I will always look on Wescott products with skepticism. 

I am sharing this letter with readers of the "eValue-ator." I will share your response with my readers, as well.

Sincerely,

The eValue-ator

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Crush the PAR16 Cartel!


A few months ago, I was replacing another of the narrow halogen bulbs (with a built-in reflector, thick glass, and standard screw base, aka: PAR16) that are in some of the track and can lights in our house. They're pricey ($8 or $9) and seem to burn out too often. I looked at various LED-based replacements for these, but they cost even more and aren't as bright. And for the locations I use these bulbs in, I don't need a bulb that will last forever.



Browsing on eBay, I came across an interesting product that I thought might get around the problem--an adapter/converter that screws into standard ("E27") bulb base fixtures and lets you use GU10 bulbs. GU10s are the little halogen reflector bulbs (right) that have two "posts" with enlarged ends that install with a bayonet-like twist.

I found a plastic version of this adapter from China on eBay (how bad could it be?) for a couple bucks, but realized a few days later that it had literally melted in my track light (no harm done)! Fortunately, I found another version on eBay made with a ceramic/porcelain body that couldn't melt. Success!

I can now buy a three-pack of GU10 bulbs for $9 - $10 at any store--and even cheaper per-bulb online--and stick them in the same fixtures that formerly took the costly bulbs. They are available in a wider range of wattages than the PAR16s, too--I have seen 20, 35, and 50-watt versions, so you're covered for a range of needs.

This combo might also work in place of the thinner-walled R20 reflector bulbs that other fixtures take. I see that Amazon has a variety of these adapters, but they all appear to be plastic (even the one marked "porcelain"), so I would avoid. However, eBay still has the real porcelain ones I bought in a five-pack for about $10, shipping from USA included--an investment that should pay back pretty quickly given the two bulb types' price differential. (If this link goes dead, search their online store: Centrix International.)


Crush the PAR16 Cartel! Rally behind the GU10 vanguard!


Sunday, November 4, 2012

NoPhoto -- No Ticket!


Traffic cameras? It's about time someone fought back against this blatantly unconstitutional tax on random drivers. Introducing NoPhoto, by No Limits Enterprises.

Note: I don't support speeding or running lights. But having read many stories about how the contractors who put these cameras in cities are allowed to fine-tune the timing of the yellow light to trap more drivers, and because I believe in the right to face one's accuser, and because the corrupt Port Authority of NY/NJ has TWICE attempted to fine me (when I returned home) for not paying Lincoln Tunnel tolls into NYC when I had receipts to prove I had paid (they're obviously expecting an out-of-state driver wouldn't bother to fight them--I sent a copy of the receipt both times and was then left alone) . . . I think we must fight back against this tyranny, although--plan on it: "chipped" plates that detect your proximity to a traffic cam are probably coming next. Smart guys will figure out how to jam those, too.

For years, I was envisioning a clear plastic license plate cover that would contain LCDs capable of generating random characters, but this will work, too:

"While the noPhoto is a highly advanced piece of equipment, the concept behind its operation is elegantly simple.  Here is how a typical traffic camera encounter would happen with the noPhoto installed on your car:

  1. The traffic camera fires its flash to illuminate your car for a picture
  2. The noPhoto detects the flash, analyzes it, and sends the proper firing sequence to its own xenon flashes
  3. The noPhoto precisely times and fires the flash at the exact moment needed to overexpose the traffic camera
  4. Since the traffic camera is not expecting the additional light from the noPhoto, all of its automated settings are incorrect and the image is completely overexposed.  Your license plate cannot be seen and you will not get a ticket in the mail."

Friday, September 21, 2012

Dear QLess:

Kansas Dept. of Vehicles is using your web-based software to "serve" customers who need license renewals and title work. It's a good concept--no more waiting in line! But in practice it's awful--About 45 minutes after "getting in line" online, I was sent a text that my estimated time until I'd get service was thirty minutes, but when I got to the motor vehicles office it ended up being an hour and a half. 

Q-less? More like Queue-max!

Time to tune up those time-estimating algorithms just a bit! I hope I won't be subject to them for a long time--the next time I have to register or title a vehicle.

I'm publishing this note on my consumer activism blog, and I'm sure people shopping for software like yours will find it. I'd be glad to publish your response, as well, if you can think of any possible way to defend yourself.

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Squeaky Wheel Re-runs:
The Kikkoman Incident


Since starting the eValue-ator, I have gotten several comments from friends and family recalling the letter I wrote to Kikkoman in 2007, decrying their soy sauce dispensing system. I always wondered if the day this clearly articulated gripe arrived in their inbox and started getting circulated throughout the office, if meetings were held and desks were cleaned out as an HR representative stood nearby. 

My ending is rather harsh, because I had not yet developed this blog and the concept of "allowing" the company to "write the last chapter" of the story, preferably by acknowledging the problem, promising to at least look into solving it, and providing some sort of compensation for the trouble endured and the letter written. In this case, Kikkoman sent me a standard apology letter and one of their classic glass decanters with the double pinhead-sized pour spouts on its plastic cap. This dispenser (at right, in the photo) works much better than their bottle at the table, but it comes up short in the refrigerator, where it could easily tip over and start dribbling out--or at the very least exposing the soy sauce to air through the two permanently open holes, thus making it lose freshness.
Dear Kikkoman.com: 
Our family have always been fans of Kikkoman soy sauce, but your 15-oz. bottle has put a dark cloud over our experience with your product.

The LAST bottle of Kikkoman we bought (probably a couple years ago), which was about a 10-12 oz. bottle, had an efficient, small-diameter cap insert that dispensed the sauce with a quick shake, exactly where you wanted it.

The new 15-oz. bottle has four large slots around the edge of the insert under the cap, and the sauce comes POURING out if you attempt to shake it onto food on a plate. If you carefully tip the bottle to coax just a few drops out while moving it around the food on your plate, it simply dribbles down the side of the bottle and onto the table.

Folks, this is not ketchup! Soy sauce is a concentrated, runny condiment that is delightful in small amounts but disgusting in large, splashy pools that overpower the subtle flavors of our homemade stir-fry. It's positively Kooky, man! 
What were you THINKING in making such a change?!? My GUESS is that you were thinking, "Hey, let's put bigger holes in the cap insert so that people can POUR it into measuring spoons for COOKING, and they'll WASTE even more attempting to dispense it at the TABLE, too, thus leading to higher sales."

Which middle manager of your organization came up with this foolish scheme? Which vice president signed off on it? Their short-term thinking for quick-term profits has led not only me, but undoubtedly many consumers, to think twice before buying another bottle of Kikkoman. Sentence the offenders to a week of waiting tables at a restaurant where Kikkoman in the 15-oz. bottle is served, and make them hear the curses of its users and clean up the stainy, sticky mess that results from ordinary table use.
Now I will BOYCOTT Kikkoman soy sauce and pass a copy of this letter on to EVERYONE on my personal e-mail list, warning them to avoid your needlessly gushy delivery system until we see a new badge on the Kikkoman label that says, "Now with NEW variable-flow dispenser cap!"
This boycott ended a year ago when my wife picked up another bottle of Kikkoman, apparently having forgotten my big position on this Crucial Issue of Our Era. And I regret to report that the stuff still comes gushing out of the bottle, and we'll have to switch back to our regional grocery store chain brand.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Five Easy (if Wordy) Things I Hate about the Dell Latitude E6510


I’m a Mac guy who has for the most part uncomplainingly used the Dell laptops my employer has supplied for seven years. I’ve gotten used to these Dull information appliances as a way to get the job done, however joylessly, but I’ve never hated a laptop with the white-hot intensity of the Dell Latitude E6510 I’m currently using—my third Dell for this job, and arguably the worst ever. Why?

1. Batteries and power non-management:
1.1: Laughably short battery life—The standard battery, that allows the unit to fit in my laptop bag, lasts about 45 minutes. 
1.2: A larger, higher-capacity battery is available, but the single battery bay (and zero backup power on main logic board) means the charger has to be plugged in to swap batteries—or you’ll lose everything currently in RAM. An annoyingly time-consuming restart follows each time. 
1.3: The battery bay is at the back of the unit, so the battery can’t be physically swapped out (say, from the small battery to the larger one, before a meeting) if the unit is on its docking stand. (My previous Dell had a small, permanent battery accessible from the underside, which was on all the time and kept RAM contents alive while swapping batteries on either side of the computer, easily accessible while on or off the docking station.)
1.4: I have played with my power management settings in Windows, but can’t get this thing to reliably give me a warning about low battery/time to plug in. It just dies. 
1.5: Even after reading and re-reading online help, I don’t get the difference between “sleep” and “hibernate,” particularly in relation to the laptop’s lid being open. Some combination of “sleep” and “hibernate” should allow the laptop, when on batteries, to go into a low-power-consumption mode on its own after a defined period of time, and manage its remaining power carefully enough to allow hours or days (depending on battery state) without losing what’s in RAM. It doesn’t work that way. 
1.6: “Resuming Windows”—If you’re lucky, you’ll get back to this laptop before it sucks the final electrons of energy from its battery. But even if you do, you’ll still wait about 30 seconds every time you come back, wake it up, and wait while it displays a bogus animation and the message “Resuming windows.” Why does an OS and hardware, that presumably keeps its last-used state in RAM while it hibernates or sleeps, need a time-consuming “resuming” step?
 2. Space heater: This laptop runs hot, and a fan blows this hot air out of a vent on the left side, right where I like to position my left hand when not typing. Even in the winter, the heat is so intense as to make you move your hand from where it naturally rests. If you set a cold drink over there, it will actually make it lukewarm after 15-20 minutes. If you lay a piece of chocolate nearby, it will melt.

3. Grime catcher: The speakers on either side of the keyboard sound pretty good, but the black perforated metal over them (serving as a grille) and extending far further than it needs to (for styling, I guess) appears to be almost designed to catch debris in its tiny holes, along with the various other gaping Catch-o-Matic™ cracks between subassemblies surrounding the keyboard. You know how the MacBook Pro has a smooth, seamless surface? This is the exact opposite, and I resent it.

4. Keyboard smarmyness: The last Dell laptop I was given had a lightly textured keyboard that showed a bit of smoothing/glossing on heavily used keys after three years, but this one has smooth keys that almost seem intended to show fingerprints/glossy wear/dust.

5. Beefy. This baby’s level of miniaturization is state of the art—for 1993. And this boat anchor ultimately does no more than the MacBook Air of a colleague who brought his featherweight laptop from his last job.

I am no fan of Microsoft or MS Windows, but in this case I’ve got to say that I actually feel Windows 7 Enterprise is being held back by the shoddy hardware it runs on.